London-based, Greek designer Romina Karamanea's show started with a clip of her briefing us on the new collection. Based on geology and nature that deeply inspire her, this was a completely new move for the designer that has never used colour to this extent before.
Here's a clip mainly to give you an idea of catwalk direction and colour palette: It was a rather challenging show for my compact camera, thankfully it wasn't for the lenses of fellow bloggers attending: A collage by The Soho Symposium. More great shots, HERE. Great snap by Life in Athens. More of this, HERE. So pleased to have come across this shot of Karamanea's cropped jacket chez Ordinary Style Pulse's. See her glance at the event, HERE.
Notes: *Hair-styling: hair resembled the roots of a plant.
*Collection vibe: shapes and fabrics switched from winter's dark, rock mood to a more late '80s, nature-impressionistic mood. Ever so interesting when designers choose to leave their safe zone and experiment. It's called 'evolving'.
*Romina Karamanea did not traditionally greet the audience at the end of the show. She was attending however, so I had to ask. Mystery solved: she was actually handling lighting and music of the show personally. Besides, she was present at the beginning through the video and available to greet everyone one-on-one at the party that followed, before flying back to London a few hours later.
Last but not least, do take a look at Filep Motwary's take on the closing march, HERE.
Berlin based duo Schmidt/Takahashi presented their latest project 'Reanimation' which I'm sure you'll find damn interesting. Their collection is made out of previously used textiles, based on the idea of recycling.
And it gets better: since the whole point is that garments are affected by their former users, S/T enable us to access information on their history through a restored RFID chip and via a special reader. Dig this: this way, the user can access all data regarding the former life of any garment, giving all materials a unique identity.
Gives a whole new meaning to 'I remember wearing this the day we met', doesn't it? In their own words: “It’s a curious and fascinating experience to slip into the external “skin” of another person. Even if the clothes are mass produced for an unknown number of consumers, each piece is affected by the individual as soon as it ends up in a the hands of that particular person. It is no longer an anonymous object. It stores aesthetic information unique to it’s owner including things like body shape, smell, posture, attitude and lifestyle. (...)“Reanimation / Wiederbelebungsmassnahmen”. [source]
Interesting presentation at the event too, with a robotic voice narration of pattern codes and fabric details substituting music. I had to show you: (Minute 01:29)
All photos in this post by photographer/dj Ino Mei.
In Makkas own words: 'How do the cells work in our bodies? The same question I can see behind the work I did for Digitaria. The clothes of Eleutheria Arapoglou always give me the feeling of a biological form that breathes and lives for itself. Like cells in our bodies. Do the clothes have memories? Or do they create memories?I am exploring the possibilities of creating an image when the mind is isolated and the body takes full control. Movement. This is how the body works' (...) [extract from HERE]
Digitaria, designed by Eleftheria Arapoglou, describes itself as 'an innovative fashion label that offers bespoke tailoring and strong silhouettes that appeal to both men and women'. I'd say it's exactly that.
This must have been a challenging project for both. For Costarellos, because he's never gone beyond the traditional lookbook and show presentation and for Sardelas because she had to shape the image of this rather low profile yet very good designer, without making him someone he is not. By all means it was a success.
An extra star for choosing to include Costarellos, the president of HFDAto this event, someone who is more 'chic' than 'radical'. It proved well that 'shaking the desease' doesn't mean excluding certain audiences and I truly liked that.
1. Alphabetical order headbands on reception desk girls. They looked cute, we got our seat number asap.2. Fashion Junky precious stone impression pendant, London, half a decade ago, point timeless.3.Life in Athens, I hear you. And same here, knackered right now. Proper post tomorrow.